Away from the crowds, yet never alone, as evidenced by delicate tracks crisscrossing the snowy trail, nibbled pinecones here and there and the warm lights of a mountain hut beckoning temptingly in the distance. If you’re quiet and patient, you might be lucky enough to spy a few timid creatures in their winter habitat. You will, however, always find a warm refuge from your winter wanderings, offering tasty regional specialties or a steaming mug of something smelling delectably of cinnamon and spice, perhaps even a crackling fire to warm your toes.